Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Sign In with Google Sign In with OpenID Sign In with Twitter
Chainsets & Chainrings
  • Only another fsa vero chainring or changing your bottom bracket (an extra fifteen or so for miche but lining up to non standard chainline of goldtec hubs makes this more difficult).

    Best option is replace it with whats on it already. Velosolo has them I think, gear might too?
  • I had this problem. I now have Sugino 75 cranks. That's how much of a ball-ache it is to sort it out. Really all you need is a shorter BB. About 10mm shorter would work I think. That might be hard to come by though. You'd be looking at trying out a 103mm as I don't think there's much out there shorter.
  • I found a 102mm bottom bracket out there somewhere.
  • aye but the chainline issues developed by the crankset and hubs combo means a miche with an adjustable chainline is a better idea, once you get in the ballpark (they come in 103, 107 and 110 sizes I belive)
  • The miche BB is really nice. It's ISO though. I'm pretty sure FSA cranks are JIS.
  • My first port of call will be to try and just hunt out a replacement FSA ring; I'll try Gear and Velosolo next week. I know velosolo sell the whole crankset, so I hope they'd be able to just sell me a chainring too.

    I don't want to change BB and/or crankset particularly until they actually bite the dust.
  • Gear also do the whole shebang but I don't Joe would be be up for parting out a chainring because then he's got to find another chainring for that crank. As far as I know, you have to order them as a single unit.
  • Chainring fail.

    Does anyone have a photo of a single-speed crankset with a chainring mounted on the inside? So that I can see how 'ugly' it actually looks. I can't seem to find one. Thanks. If it works and doesn't look that bad I could go with euan's Sugino mounted on the inside of the chainset.
  • For 'cheap as chips' try the Mighty one piece crank and chainring.

    You can get them for less than £20.

    They are square taper fitting and are surprisingly light and good quality with nice forged crank arms

    Ok, when the ring wears out it's done but they are surprisingly good for the money - i've used them in the past for a cheapo option and the decals can come off to give a nice unbranded look if that is your thang
  • Putting the chainring on the inside on my RD2 sorted my problem. Looks kinda weird but only close up.
  • [quote]
    Sheldon Brown:
    Road Double 43.5 Shimano spec, measured to the midpoint between the rings.
    with typical 5 mm chainring spacing, this puts the inner at 41 mm, the outer at 46 mm.

    Sheldon says that a road double puts the outer chainring at 46mm and I believe goldtech give you a 45mm chainline at the hub so it shouldn't be far out. Have you measured your current chainline?

    My recommendation would be to sort the chainline so you can use standard chainrings and not rely on the dished ring.
  • I don't know my current chainline, no. I'll read Sheldon and try to get my head round it all. It was all sorted magically for me at the bike shop when they built the bike up, so I never bothered getting to grips with chainline properly.

    Goldtech hubs should indeed have a 45mm chainline. Not making things easy for myself.
  • The Sugino RD with the ring on the outside and a 103 BB gives a 45mm chainline (thats what I have) if thats any help.
  • 1mm out is no big deal, not perfect but there's enough float in a chain to deal with that quite happily.
  • Maybe I will take euan's Sugino chainring then... will whisper...
  • I have exactly the same as phunkymunky. Perfect chainline.
  • What hubs do you have phunkymunky and trailstar that need the 45mm chainline?

    Should we start our own transmission database like they have in London?
  • i use goldtech hubs. They are amazing.. so smooth and solid :)
  • Aha, ditto.
  • [quote]
    krakow:
    What hubs do you have phunkymunky and trailstar that need the 45mm chainline?

    Should we start our own transmission database like they have in London?

    Unfortunately my hubs run a 42mm chainline so I have a couple of spacers between hub shoulder and cog. I would like to get a Goldtech rear so it matches better though.
  • I've been thinking about this krakow. What you could do is just move your old chainring to the inside and have it dished out the way and running it in the oposite direction.
  • Measured my chainline and it is 45mm, front and rear, at the moment, as expected with the Goldtec hub.

    Looking at it, I don't think that mounting a flat chainring on the inside of the current cranks will match, it will be too far in towards the bike. Surely replacement dished chainrings must be available? I can't tell what's is and isn't dished.

    Mounting the current dished ring inside with it dished outwards I guess would work too as you suggest Getafix. If it's worn at the moment, will it still be good the other way round? I reckon and have been advised that the chainring is not in too good a condition now in terms of being worn, you see.

    Another thought...
    If I mount an undished chainring on the outside of the current FSA Vero cranks, then that will move the front chainline out by how much? Could I use spacers on the hub to move the rear chainline out a matching amount?
  • What is the current BB size? You should be able to make the adjustment via a new BB and the chainring on the inner?
  • It's a 107mm BB. Symmetrical Shimano UN53 I believe.

    I don't really want to buy and fit a new BB unless I really have to though; it still seems to be surviving (though my mechanical knowledge, as evidenced here, is pretty scant).
  • I have mounted stuff on the inside of the vero cranks and it matches up well with where the dished chainring is (only FSA make those dished chainrings)
  • Also if you mount the chainring on the inside ring backwards it'll just be the same as if you mounted a non dished chainring on the outside.

    Cause you don't skid and use two brakes you'd probably be fine putting some spacers on the back to fix the chaininline on the rear hub to match the front.
  • Thanks islipaway, fingers crossed. Euan's being kind enough to let me have a try with his spare Sugino 48T before purchase, so I should hopefully be able to try it out first, just in case, with the aid of Velonoir to hold my hand probably.

    Getting the Sugino chainring for a fiver would be good financial boost you see, so I'm pretty keen to be able to use that if possible without having to change anything else beyond the chain and rear cog.

    Going to order a KMC Z510 chain and probably an Andel cog from Parker, since I have a Surly cog now which matches well and I believe the Andel are pretty much identical in terms of how they affect chainline.
  • Andel cogs are nice.
  • yeah I have one (not fitted) but it feels much better quality than my other cogs, nice lockring too.
  • reading this thread makes my brain hurt. I think I am following it....at points. Never knew it chainline needed to be so precise. When I come to replacing my FSA vero cranks I will return to this thread
  • It certainly makes my head hurt too; for something that might be so simple, there's a lot of potential wee difficulties.

    It probably doesn't have to be completely precise, but it would be nice to get it so if I'm going to put the money and effort into it.
  • You should have tried being me when I was trying to decide if the Dura Ace 7600 track cranks were ISO or JIS taper.
  • Haha... what did you eventually decide then? JIS or ISO ;)

    Don't worry too much about the chainring, try the Sug and see if it'll fly. If not we can look at other options. A new BB is easy to fit and you'll get one cheap off hilary on the london forum or from ebay.
  • I decided on a 110mm JIS. gives an almost perfect chainline.
  • As per what islipaway said at the time, mounting the untapered Sugino chainring on the inside of the FSA Vero cranks gave the same chainline as having their original dished chainring mounted on the outside, at least to my eye. We didn't have to move the rear cog anyway. Not riden yet, but it looks fine by eye.
  • Back to thinking about this subject again for building up my Carlton frame.

    I'd like another 130 BCD crankset, to allow me to use the same chainrings on both bikes, as the Armstrong uses FSA Vero. I quite fancy the silver (non-messenger) Sugino RD, but hear mutterings about chainline issues with them & I'd like to avoid have to mount the chainring on the inside again, for aesthetic reasons. Any other options apart from the Sugino RD and the FSA Vero?
  • the shimano 600 cranks i've seen have been 130 BCD. always thought they looked like nice cranks. chainline shouldn't be an issue as long as you get the right length of bb spindle. it's working out what length you need that i don't quite understand!
  • I've managed to destroy a Gebhardt chainring in far too short a space of time - what chainrings would be a worthwhile step up from that if I want to invest in better quality for the replacement? Still running the 130BCD and am ideally looking for 46T.
  • you could just cycle less?
  • assuming it's for the fixed http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/surly-steel-chainring-130bcd-564-p.asp

    Chainrings are the biggest rip off ever. There's no need to keep wearing out expensive alloy ones with marginal weight savings, just get a steel one and polish it once a year!
  • and of course you can flip it round when it eventually does wear out and have the same life again
  • Cycle less? No. Clean more? Yes.
  • clean more or stainless steel +1
  • rusty said:

    Cycle less? No. Clean more? Yes.



    Its called a joke rusty.
  • I clean my drivechain once a week now! I have been doing so for the last 9-10 months; since the end of last summer. It does help, but I'm still wearing through components at a crazy rate this year.
  • Clean regularly or Stainless +1

    Or.................More bikes so you can spread the wear and tear ;)
  • more bikes, I like you thinking, more bikes is always good :)